I am trying to look at this old sport of my lifelong soul’s quest as a new sport that I have never done before because it is depressing to have been doing something for decades that you’re still not very good at. Actually, I am pretty good, on little waves. I just don’t like waves with meat and that is all Nosara has to offer. So I have to step it up. And it’s good. This is why I love surfing because it teaches oneself about the blockages that hold one back. It causes me to look at things that I wouldn’t usually see in my comfort zone.

So I am taking inspiration from this little girl, running toward the waves with a heart full of glee to be closing the gap between the surf and her. Tomorrow I will run to the ocean with this same glee, with joy in my heart just to be out there under the big, beautiful sun, worshipping the waves.

Magic 232/365, Glee, Playa Guiones, Nosara, Costa Rica, August 2018